Friday, December 28, 2007

Christmas party at work

Last night Meltem and I went to the Christmas/New Year's party at TIPPS, where I work. I'm not really up to being a party person anymore, but it was actually a lot of fun. The guy who runs TIPPS is some kind of genius of workplace psychology, because it really is an enjoyable place to work, and while I find the phrase "big happy family" a bit cheesy, it's close. Anyway, here are a couple of snaps from the bacchanal.



Behold, a staid classroom transformed into a locus of holiday cheer!



Here's Meltem next to the tree. All the presents are for the "Yankee Swap" we did (a weird ritual in which people open anonymously brought presents according to a random numbering system; anyone who opens a present they don't like can swap it for one that someone else has already opened). We felt bad that the presents we bought were just little cute things, whereas the haul under the tree had lots of big ol' boxes. But it turns out that people either were dumping stuff they had found in their attic, or had bought joke gifts – the runaway hit of the evening was a Santa doll with a long neck and a bottle in one hand, which bobbed its head drunkenly to the tune of "B-I-N-G-O" when you pushed a button.



Above, witness the dancing. I like how the gold bust of Atatürk is scowling down upon all this debauchery.



Finally, here's your happy MelbaBlog couple, wishing everyone a Happy New Year.

Thursday, December 20, 2007

Holiday cheer



Behold, our Christmas corner! Note the hauntingly beautiful air lent by the candles; they're part of the annual Christmas generosity of my mom. The presents are from her, too. (I haven't finished wrapping my present to Meltem yet – I'm still trying to wrap the big pink bow around the hood... aw, I use the same joke every year.) And if you look closely you can see the little white ornament she sent; it's got two little snowmen, labeled "Meltem" and "Barry." (Well, maybe you can't see it, but it's there.) So I'd like to take this opportunity to publicly thank Mom for making our faraway Christmas that much nicer!

It's holiday season around these parts, too. Today is Kurban Bayramı, the Feast of the Sacrifice, on which Muslims commemorate the willingness of the prophet Ibrahim (that's Abraham to you Old Testament aficionados) to sacrifice his own son (in their version it was Isma'il, i.e. Ishmael, not Isaac). The practice is to either sacrifice a sheep and give its meat as charity to the poor, or at least to pay someone else to do it. Now there's a fun holiday. At least I get four sorely needed days off because of it. Ah, but then I have to work on Christmas Eve AND Christmas Day! But then, I'll have our Christmas corner to keep my spirits up (repeated here in its fully illuminated form):

Monday, December 17, 2007

Double Birthday!

Barry has been threatening to change the blog's name to BarryBlog if I don't post anything soon, so here I go.

The 10th of December is my aunt Nacize's birthday, and the next day is my father's. So, we always celebrate the two birthdays together. Since the 10th and the 11th were weekdays, we celebrated them this last Friday at my parents' place. Unfortunately, Barry could not make it because lately he has been teaching until 9 PM, and he did so again last Friday, and getting to my parents' place from where he teaches would take around one hour with public transportation.

As you can see in the pictures, my brother Hasan and his wife Elif were also there. We brought presents and a cake. Here is a picture of the birthday girl and the birthday boy, blowing out the candles:



Here is my father opening his present, with Elif next to him, and my mom is serving the cake.




Finally, here is us: now, don't be so shocked to see my size. I look bigger sitting and in a picture than standing and in real life. I don't care whether this sounds non-scientific, I am sticking to it.


So, that was the "birthdays party" at Kelepirs.

I would also like to make two important announcements when I have this chance:

1- On Thanksgiving, I also made gravy, which I had not done before and did not have an idea of what it was supposed to look like and taste like. That was one of the dishes I ended up being proud of, and Barry forgot to mention it, so I must. :^)

2- Ozan Watch's name appears as "Meltem's Baby". Now, of course it is not just my baby, but Barry installed it, and he says the tool doesn't let you write Meltem&Barry's (it's too long), he doesn't want to abbreviate our names, and he insists that it should say "Meltem's."

Have a storm-free week!

Thursday, December 13, 2007

A fine trip across the water

Meltem and I just returned from a nice day out. Thursday is my day off from teaching, so I have the luxury of going places in the afternoon with her, after her class gets out. So what did we do, you ask? Well, I'll tell you.

It all starts with my Turkish driver's license – i.e., the one I don't have and need to get. Much to my annoyance, I can't just convert my U.S. license to a Turkish one, since my Massachusetts license expired well over a year ago. So I need to go through the whole process of getting a Turkish one. To this end, Meltem signed me up for a driving course across the Bosphorus, in a neighborhood called Üsküdar. Now before you snicker too much, rest assured that I'm not actually sitting in a class with a bunch of Turkish teenagers every week; rather, I have to be registered with such a course in order to be eligible to take the official test. I probably should have sat in for the lessons, though, because the test you have to take is hard! You not only have to know the rules of the road – which virtually all Turkish drivers treat as a contemptible fiction, but whatever – you have to know how an engine works, as well as the principles and practices of first aid! I tried one of the online practice tests and failed the last two sections pretty convincingly. I do have a lesson book, so I'm boning up in my spare time.

(Truth be told, not all the questions are THAT hard. E.g. one question I remember from the motor section is "If such-and-such [corroded spark plug or whatever] is wrong with your engine, what color smoke will come out with your car's exhaust? (a) Blue (b) Red (c) Yellow (d) Black." I'd like the see the car that belches red smoke when it's got engine trouble. Maybe this one.)

So back to our day out. As part of the bureaucratic rigamarole which anything in Turkey requires, the driving school needed to see my university diploma. A photocopy wouldn't do; they had to see the sheepskin itself. So we hauled my Johns Hopkins B.A. (don't want to intimidate them with my Harvard Ph.D., snark snark) over there for them. Today we went over to get it back. The weather has suddenly turned freezing cold, which I didn't realize when I set out in jeans and Docksides, but there we are. "Across the Bosphorus" sounds far away, but actually we just take a bus down to the shore and there's a little ferry which zips across in about five minutes. We picked up my diploma and got chatted up by the school's owner, then had a nice little walk around Üsküdar, a cute neighborhood dominated by two Ottoman mosques. We even found a cool antiques-sellers' market, where we marveled at stuff like old radios with Moscow, Belgrade and Radio Free Europe pre-painted on the dial.

Going home was no picnic, especially since we had to go through a busy area at rush hour. Which reminds me that as we crossed the Bosphorus, we saw the rig where they are working, finally, on an underground metro link between the European and Asian sides. The city is on a civil-engineering binge to try and clear up the hellish traffic situation. By 2012, they tell us, you'll be able to travel on the metro all the way from the airport to far up the Asian shore. Let's hope!

Now Meltem has exited the premises for Girls' Night Out with two of her friends, and I am left to do stuff like update our worldwide legion of fans on stuff like going out to pick up my diploma. More entertaining stuff as it happens!

P.S. Meltem informs me that not only is Ozan an inveterate kicker, he seems now to have begun trying somersaults in there. I asked her whether we should direct him to the Turkish or American Olympic gymnastics team...

Monday, December 03, 2007

New feature alert!

Alert readers will have duly noted the presence of a new feature on MelbaBlog: The "Ozan watch" feature. Meltem found this online and thought it would be a neat addition to our blog. Please note: The real Ozan is much cuter than his online avatar.

Saturday, December 01, 2007

"Someone's coming. Act like a cat."

Partly because I want to try embedding a video, and partly because this video cracked Meltem up, I'm gonna give this a whirl. Meow!

Friday, November 30, 2007

Eye am relieved

The story behind that lame and enigmatic pun: Recently Meltem's mom went to her eye doctor and he told her she had cataracts and needed an operation. Now cataract operations apparently aren't a big deal, but who on earth wants to have someone poking around inside their eyeballs, no matter how advanced a medical age we may live in?! Ever the sensible one, Meltem's mom went to another eye doctor for a second opinion – and he said there was nothing wrong at all! So this morning the ladies of the family went together to an eye hospital to get our beloved patient looked at by the doctor who looked at me last time I had a checkup, a woman we like and trust. And her verdict was: Nothing wrong. Yay! In celebration, Meltem's mom is going to pick up some snazzy new frames for her glasses. Another day, another event in the thrilling lives of your MelbaBlog hosts.

Saturday, November 24, 2007

Ozan the Prominent

Ladies and gentlemen, I give you: the lovely Meltem, proud mommy-to-be, wearing a sweater whose bottom button she has long since forgotten exists!





Now that's some cargo! And to think, the boy's got three more months of growth ahead of him (expected due date is February 22)!

Cute Ozan anecdote: Yesterday Meltem went in for a scheduled test for diabetes, in which she had to drink some sickly-sweet, glucose-rich concoction and sit around waiting for her body to do its thing with it. She reports that when she drank it, Ozan started bouncing off the walls in there! Warning taken; no candy for this one...

Another happy holiday

Just like she did last year, this past Thursday Meltem organized an absolutely wonderful Thanksgiving. This time she invited two of her American colleagues from her department, Kim and Louie. She also prepared a superb repast including turkey (which in Turkish we call hindi, i.e. "Indian"!), mashed potatoes (of course), and cranberry sauce (hard to find in Istanbul!). Here we are raising our glasses:



(The turkey looks shiny because Meltem's fiendishly clever culinary technique requires the use of a plastic bag.)

After dinner we broke out the pièce de resistance, an actual pumpkin pie. Not from a can, mind you, but baked especially for us by a local patisserie. (When Meltem called to describe what she wanted, they said, "Oh, you mean the thing Americans eat on Halloween?" Heh.) All in all it was a wonderful night. So we are two for two on Thanksgiving! Hope all our faithful readers had a nice one too.

Wednesday, November 21, 2007

Now I can go to kollege

You may recall that I recently had to take the SAT to prove my mettle as a teacher of those who wish to do well on said SAT. Well, the results became available yesterday, and I aced that puppy: perfect scores (i.e. 800) on both Critical Reading and Writing. (Plus, since I had the luxury of not having to answer a darn thing on the Math section, I can chuckle with Olympian detachment at my as-low-as-it-gets score of 200 on that part of the test.) Nice to feel smart now and then.

Monday, November 19, 2007

"Mine's bigger than yours"

The other night we had Meltem's brother Hasan and his wife Elif over for dinner. As we have mentioned, they too are expecting a baby, about six weeks later than Ozan is due (thus April). Theirs will be a girl; current name choice, which came to Elif in a dream, is Melek, which means "angel." (I like how it's reminiscent of Meltem.) Part of the evening's entertainment was playing How's My Belly Coming Along?:



Hah! We win! Nice one, Ozan!

Friday, November 16, 2007

Be careful what you wish for

Or: When it rains, it pours. And how! After a summer drought which made me vow I'd never complain about rain again, we've gotten really socked recently with nonstop rain. The temperature goes up and down between the high 40s and the high 60s, but the rain is pretty dependable. Walking home from work tonight (damn overbooked taxis) I amused myself with visions of surfing all the way home. Given how hilly Istanbul is, you get real little rivers gushing down the streets. This isn't amusing to everyone, of course, and there is always flooding, injuries and even death in this kind of weather. Other cities, particularly in northwest Turkey (Thrace), have gotten slammed:





I should also mention, although naturally it pales in comparison to this, that I've gotten a real "flood" of students lately. This means that the money is pouring in, but it's also beginning to wear on my regrettably easily-worn-out constitution. I may only work between four and six hours a day, but I work six days a week, and I'm beginning to feel the need for a real weekend now and then. Oh well, I tell myself Ozan needs the cash and it's temporary anyway – there will be a four-day holiday right before Christmas, then New Year's Eve and Day, and then (we hope) a lull in registrations after the SAT on January 26. So for the nonce I'm sucking it up. Wish me luck.

Girls' night in

Last night Meltem had two of her oldest and best friends over for Girls' Night In. Naturally I took part, being in touch with my feminine side and all. Well, at least I got to eat dinner with them and take this picture:



(Left to right: Tuba, Şehnaz, Meltem; center: a delicious sweet-and-sour chicken repast prepared by our lovely hostess!)

Ozan's goodies

Somewhat belatedly, let me present to you a photo of Meltem and me buried in the generosity of others:



Thanks to Kim, Dad and Susan for the clothes! Ozan will be the sharpest-dressed bologna loaf on the block.

Friday, November 09, 2007

Science is cool

I just found myself directed to a cool web page which aims to impress upon you just how much of the universe is .... nuthin'. It's a scale model of a hydrogen atom; the proton is 1000 pixels wide, which just about fills my computer screen, whereas the electron is 1 pixel wide – and several MILES to the right! That's a whole lotta nuthin'. Makes you think.

Thursday, November 08, 2007

Fatherly pride update

I mentioned in a previous post that Ozan kicked during a silly movie with kung-fu fighting. Well, the other night Meltem and I happened to be catching a broadcast of a Bruce Lee movie (it was Fists of Fury, if you must know, under its original Hong Kong release name The Big Boss) and Ozan AGAIN gave a hearty kick, right during the dramatic scene where Bruce Lee breaks his vow not to bust any more heads. Oh, that's my boy (Ozan, not Bruce).

Wednesday, November 07, 2007

"The law is a ass, a idiot"

That's a quote from some Charles Dickens character. I was reminded of it when I read this tidbit on the BBC website. It lists some of the stupidest laws on the books in both the UK and other countries. Highlights of British legal silliness include:
  • It is illegal to die in the Houses of Parliament
  • It is illegal for a woman to be topless in Liverpool except as a clerk in a tropical fish store
  • In the UK a pregnant woman can legally relieve herself anywhere she wants, including in a policeman's helmet [I kind of want to take Meltem back to London to test this one out!]
  • It is legal to murder a Scotsman within the ancient city walls of York, but only if he is carrying a bow and arrow
Similarly weird laws in foreign countries include:
  • In Ohio, it is illegal to get a fish drunk
  • In Indonesia, the penalty for masturbation is decapitation
  • In Florida, unmarried women who parachute on a Sunday could be jailed
  • In France, it is illegal to name a pig Napoleon
I never thought I'd view Turkey as legally progressive, but in the light of these inanities it's even nicer to note that the government here plans to change the idiotic law making it a punishable offense to "insult Turkishness."

(Important disclaimer: The BBC is a cesspool of [taxpayer-funded!] left-wing bias which more often than not makes me either roll my eyes or want to puke. Nevertheless, it does occasionally offer some value.)

Monday, November 05, 2007

Hiatus explained

By the way, sorry we've been incommunicado for a few days (both here and in the world of e-mail). We've been having problems with our wireless Internet access. Normally we view it as a boon of our academic setting, but there's a dark side. The network kept excluding us, so Meltem called the university help line for such matters. The wage-sucking jerk on the other end treated her to a disquisition on how wireless access points should all be configured by the university, since they end up interfering with each other – but the university doesn't have enough staff to do it, so people should just deal with it and use wires. Thanks, Chester! Thanks for doing your job and helping out, instead of giving us a sermon on why we suck! Grrr. Anyway, what I mean to say is that this time there's a technological reason for our silence, instead of us being lazy or uncommunicative.

A fatherly moment

So I come home from work the other day flush with cash, because I had two weeks' pay in a pocket of my notebook. I come home and plunk it proudly on the table, and Meltem says, "Good, that can be the down payment on Ozan's crib and dresser!" So I've had my first experience of my hard-earned money going straight to my son's expenses. I thought I would resent it more, but it's kind of cool. Especially because we got our boy a mighty fine crib/dresser set. Photos to come when it's installed (and when there's a kid in it!).

I am old

To prove my mettle as an SAT teacher, this past Saturday I took the SAT. It was an interesting experience, not least because the SAT has changed since I first took it. And when did I take it? Twenty-one long years ago, back in 1986 (that time in Germany, since I was a high-school exchange student then). Good grief, when I took the SAT Reagan and Gorbachev were holding meetings – I feel like a footnote in a history book! I also marveled at the fact that everyone in the test room, potentially including the proctor, was young enough to be my son or daughter. Well, at least I didn't have the pressure of college applications hanging over me...

Thursday, November 01, 2007

Ozan update

Today we went in for another regularly scheduled ultrasound. Everything looks just fine, which is good to know. Ultrasounds usually look like so much TV interference, but today we did get one really good look at Ozan's little face as he opened his mouth to suck in some of that yummy amniotic fluid. Then he put his hand in front of his face and obscured our view. Modest, just like his old man!

Season's Greetings – BOO!

Yesterday was Halloween, although you wouldn't know it here because it hasn't caught on the way Christmas has. (Turks can get into the idea of lights, trees, and even Santa, but the notion of sending your kid around dressed up as a monster – or, worse, Hillary Clinton – is still pretty foreign to them.) Ah, but the holidays are all connected: Last night, in lieu of trick-or-treating, we were watching Las Vegas on TV and lo and behold, it was a Christmas episode, complete with dying friends, orphans, families reuniting, the works. A cute coincidence.

Monday, October 29, 2007

Update

Hello all! Today is not only the first day in which to bask in the afterglow of the Red Sox' World Series victory and note the curious absence of the Yankees from the top tier of the league over the past few years, it's also Republic Day in Turkey. In other words, it's the 84th birthday of the Turkish Republic. In true national-birthday style, they unleashed an unbelievable barrage of fireworks over the Bosphorus: 48,000 explosions in 15 minutes! Quite a sight, at least on TV. We could have seen it if we had gone over to Meltem's university, but we're staying in.

This is in part because poor Meltem has a tummy bug. Last night we were at a wedding, of all places, and at the exact moment when the bride and groom were being asked by the officiant (a city bureaucrat – secular weddings here, folks) "Do you take so-and-so," Meltem had to run up the stairs to the bathroom and drive the porcelain bus. We ended up leaving early and she had a rough night. She's still couch-ridden, but at least her stomach has settled somewhat. I'll pass on all your condolences.

I'll close on a positive note. I had my first moment of fatherly pride tonight: We were on the couch watching a deeply stupid yet somehow captivating movie with lots of chicks in bikinis getting in kung-fu fights. And Ozan started joining in! I put my hand on Meltem's bump and felt a good strong kick or two. I can see he's already taking after his old man; brings a tear to my eye.

The dominant baseball team of the 21st century (so far)



Two World Series wins in four years. Way to make up for that 86-year drought in the last century!

Friday, October 19, 2007

Cousin en route!

Here's some good news: Meltem's brother Hasan and his wife Elif are having a baby too, and today they found out that it's definitely a girl! Apparently they want to name her Irem, which is the name of the garden of Paradise. She's due in April, so Ozan will be just a couple of months older than her. We are already picturing them playing together.

Wednesday, October 17, 2007

Ultrasound report

Hello again! As I mentioned in my last post, yesterday we went in for Ozan's detailed ultrasound. This is a process in which the doctor peers at the swishing blobs on the computer screen and pronounces various organs healthy: "Spine – check! Kidneys – check!" It was a little tough to follow, not least because Ozan was being somewhat uncooperative vis-à-vis giving us a nice pose. Well, there was the time he yawned, or the gesture he seemed to be making with his index finger (I plan to give him plenty of tutelage on finger-gestures when he's out of the womb!). The end result was a clean bill of health for our little one, which of course is great news.

One very nice thing about the visit was that Meltem's mom came. Many people here are quite conservative about these matters, some to the point of thinking that even talking about the baby before it's born will attract ill fortune. But Meltem's mom demonstrated an admirable progressive streak and accompanied us to the ultrasound, where she joined us in being glued to the screen for the whole time. She understood just as little as we did of what we were seeing, but still enjoyed the experience.

So the countdown to February 22 (or thereabouts) continues apace. We will keep our faithful readers posted as things go on!

Monday, October 15, 2007

At last, the deluge

Alert MelbaBlog readers will recall that we've been having a serious rain problem (as in, no rain) for several months now. We've also been roasting all summer, and even into recent weeks. Well, we got our payback this weekend: An impressive storm which dumped vast amounts of rain on the city over a day and a half, as well as driving the temperature down about 20 degrees. I got caught in it, of course, although I did have my umbrella to hand. Because Istanbul is very hilly and its drainage system largely inadequate, you get rivers of water gushing down practically every other street; I thought I was gonna need a skiff to get to the bus stop I needed to be at. (I also heard a voice saying "Build me an ark," but I discounted it.) Today (Monday) is rainless so far, but it's nice and chilly. Meltem and I were talking about how just two days ago the thought of walking around in a jacket was ridiculous, and now we have to wear undershirts and sweaters!

Preview of coming attractions: Tomorrow we're going in for what is billed as a "detailed ultrasound." We're both looking forward to it immensely, because it's been so long since we saw Ozan floating around in there. It's a funny feeling to miss him this way. Well, come February 22 or so we'll be able to see him whenever we want!

Saturday, October 06, 2007

A connecting principle

Today we had a lucky coincidence. I walked over to my school this morning for what I thought would be a 10:30 class, only to be told that there had been a foul-up and my student wouldn't be able to come until 3:00. Grrrr! Anyway, I called Meltem to let her know that I was coming back home; as it turned out that she was in a cab on her way to a nearby neighborhood to get someone's signature on a form, we agreed that she would pick me up on her way back. Well, while she was doing her errand she slipped and wrenched her ankle. The cab driver helped her back into the car, but she was still in a bit of a bind. Good thing that I had just been added to her itinerary! When we arrived home I helped her up the five flights of stairs to our apartment, where I wrapped her ankle in ice and brought her painkillers and such. Don't worry, the ankle's not too bad – just a little sore and swollen, but not badly sprained or anything. Sympathy notes may be left in the Comments section.

Bonus points for anyone who can figure out why I gave this post the title I did.

Friday, September 28, 2007

Fatherhood, here I come

Ever the wise one, Meltem started taking classes a couple of weeks ago with a local baby guru, Ayşe Öner. Ms. Öner has not only written an outstanding book on pregnancy and infant care, she is also baby-adviser to the stars, as it were, having helped several famous Turkish singers and actresses with their own babies. Husbands are, of course, welcome in the classes, and I have blocked off Tuesday and Friday mornings on my teaching schedule so that I can go when there's something particularly useful to me. And today there was: I learned how to bathe a (plastic) baby. I was a big success, if I do say so myself; you shoulda seen me, dipping that sucker in the water, turning it over, etc. (I refrained from grabbing it by the ankles and dunking it in head-first, you'll be impressed to hear.) So Meltem has already decreed that I will be in charge of Ozan's baths. Ha! How hard can this parenting thing be?

Tuesday, September 25, 2007

What a wonderful world!

Someone forwarded this video to Meltem; she sent it on to me, and now I'm posting it, or at least a link to it, for your delectation. It's an absolutely amazing performance by a shadow-puppeteer (at a recent artistic awards show in Australia, apparently). A wonderful world indeed, if it's got guys this talented in it.

Sunday, September 23, 2007

I, working man

Ah, the weekend. While the general population takes a well-deserved break from their labors, I have my fullest schedule of the week. This is to be expected, since I'm teaching kids who are in high school during the week and thus come either in the late afternoon or on the weekend. So right now I have eight hours of teaching on Saturday and six on Sunday. When I realized that this is a normal day for most workin' folks I had to chuckle; I haven't had a normal eight-hour-a-day job since leaving my post at the V&A! Gotta say this lifestyle suits me, though. I like my students, they like me, the money is good, and I have enough free time to get adequate rest and pursue stuff like my miniature-painting lessons. Life's good.

Speaking of working: Tomorrow (Monday) Meltem starts teaching again, after her first truly relaxing summer vacation in years. I hope you'll all join me in wishing her a great semester!

Oh, and speaking of the V&A: Last Thursday, as I got off the metro to go to my painting lesson, I felt a hand on my shoulder, turned around, and saw – my old boss from the V&A, Tim, in town on museum business. Small world (some would say too small).

Wednesday, September 19, 2007

Going public

For those of you we haven't told personally, we hereby announce to the MelbaBlog readership at large that Meltem is pregnant, and it's a boy! Yep, we saw him in all his boy-glory in an ultrasound last week – he even waved at us (no, really). After wrangling over names for literally years now, we've pretty much settled on the name Ozan, which is Turkish for "poet" or "wandering minstrel." Ozan is due to join us on February 22, although I'm hoping he hangs tight for another week so as to get a Leap Year birthday, heh heh. Meltem and I are both incredibly excited, and we'll post developments as they happen.

Monday, September 17, 2007

Beeeeeeeep

Hello again from thankfully-a-lot-cooler-now Istanbul. Here's a pet peeve of mine: Car horns. It's general practice around here to hit the horn whenever anything frustrates you even an eensy-weensy bit on the road; some find it therapeutic to lean on the damn thing for 40 seconds or so at a stretch. Today was a perfect-storm situation for that kind of thing: It's the first day of school, so come about 2 pm there were lots of students crowding the nearby bus stop and thereby holding up traffic; and it's Ramadan, so any driver who was fasting was cranky already and wasn't gonna take kindly to that sort of delay. So it was BEEEEEEP BEEEEEEEP BEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEP for an agonizingly long few minutes outside our peaceful, flower-studded balcony today.

On a less irritable note, it is nice to see the beginning of the school year. There are a couple of schools right nearby, and it warms the cockles of my ex-academic's heart to see all the kids in their uniforms marching off to get educated. Also, they play lots of patriotic music on the first day of school, which is kind of neat. (Once I was walking by and heard a class reciting multiplication tables all in unison. I should have stuck around, I could've learned something.)

Sunday, September 09, 2007

Our trip

As promised, here's some words and pics to tell you about our trip down south. (As always, if you click on a picture you get a bigger version.)

We spent about 6 days at a little place near the city of Antalya. It wasn't a big stupid anthill of a hotel, thank God, but a really nice, small group of wooden bungalows nestled between the mountains and the shore (ten bungalows spread out over 9000 square meters, or 2.2 acres). The owner is really great about keeping the place peaceful and quiet; there was no music, no TV, nothing to mar the absolutely beautiful silence. Here's what our bungalow looked like:



And here's the setting we found ourselves in (this is the view from our porch toward the mountains):



Those are citrus trees planted between the bungalows. We weren't sure what the fruits were because they weren't ripe yet; I used my tried-and-true method of rubbing the leaves and savoring the citrus aroma that wafts noseward, coming up with the idea that they were lemons; Meltem pointed out that they lacked the pointy ends of lemons and theorized that they were oranges and tangerines. There were also a lot of pomegranate trees around with big fat pomegranates hanging off them; here's Meltem to demonstrate.



As I said, the bungalows were nicely placed between the mountains and the sea. We surprised ourselves by displaying the willpower to get up at 6:00 am each morning to go down and watch the sun rise over the Mediterranean. It looks like this:



The setting was really amazingly beautiful because you really are right between dramatic mountains and beautiful blue sea. Sometimes this made the place bear an uncanny resemblance to Hawaii, a place brought to mind by views like this:



One of the mountains, the tallest in the area, was known to the ancients as Mount Olympos (not that one, another one). I took this picture of it from the beach:



Speaking of Olympos, that was the name of the local city in ancient and medieval times. It was a major harbor city in the Lycian League (a confederation of city-states in Hellenistic times) but eventually fell into obscurity. The ruins were about a half-hour walk down the beach from us. I took a morning walk over there and was just stunned at how cool it was; I totally felt like Indiana Jones as I clambered over paths in a dense forest, here and there coming across ancient and medieval ruins. Here, for example, is the entrance to the local temple from Roman times:



The Romans also left this bath with a lovely mountain for a backdrop:



There was also a nifty Byzantine structure of unknown, but probably religious, purpose. There were remnants of mosaic floors scattered around the site but I just liked the evocativeness of the building, thinking how 1600 years ago there would have been gloomy Greeks muttering their prayers under the now-fallen domes.



My jaunt over to Olympos was really the only non-lazy thing either of us did the whole time, I'm happy to report. We intended to relax, and by God did we ever relax. It was certainly easy to do so in our bungalow-amid-the-fruit-trees. Here's my better half sitting on the porch:



And here's me blissfully swinging in a hammock on the premises:



Since the "hotel" was so small, there were few other people around, which is one of my sine qua nons for a vacation worthy of the name. We did have numerous companions, though. For example, there was a cat we named Cheeky for his big sideburns:



Cheeky was impressively sanguine given the horde of chickens who constantly roamed the premises pecking and peeping:



There were other creatures too; I snapped this little guy as he lumbered toward the shade under our bungalow:



Anyway, that should give you some idea of what kind of nice vacation we had. Now we are back in the big city, getting ready for the school year to begin so Meltem can teach and I can await the hordes of SAT candidates I've been promised. Don't worry, we'll keep you up to date on all our thrilling doings!

Saturday, September 08, 2007

Arteest at work

We're back from our wonderful trip to the south of Turkey, and a full-blown photo-filled travelogue will follow shortly. First, though, I wanted to share my new hobby: miniature painting. Yep, I studied illustrated manuscripts for so long, now I figure I should take the trouble to learn how to make 'em myself. (Much better than bloviating about them along with other impotent leeches on the creative heritage of humanity – but enough about academia.) And as luck would have it, Istanbul happens to have a number of people still practicing traditional-style book arts (i.e. calligraphy, miniature painting, illumination, and bookbinding), and last weekend I signed up for lessons with a very nice guy in Taksim. Here's a picture of me at my first lesson:



And here's a close-up of (my receding hairline and) what I was doing: flower motifs!



And here's a little number I've been working on for a few hours now (click on the picture for a larger version):



OK, it's not mine, but you get the idea...

Friday, August 31, 2007

Authority and its abusers

Around here the traffic police have a nifty gadget: kind of a side-mounted forklift on their truck. It's used for scooping up cars that are illegally parallel parked on the side of the road. Were they to use them regularly and scrupulously, they could conceivably make a dent in the infuriating congestion in our neighborhood, where people park where'er they dern well please and choke up the roads for the rest of us. Alas, the police are neither regular nor scrupulous, and you can imagine our surprise when Meltem and I emerged from a shop this morning to see our beloved Bernie (who had not been illegally parked, thank you very much) hoisted up on the traffic scooper! We hustled over and Meltem tried to reason with the cop, drawing his attention to the conspicuous lack of any "No Parking" signs in the area. He wasn't moved, though, and it took all her negotiating skills plus a judicious invocation of her pregnant state just to get him to put the car back on the ground and settle for a 66-lira "picking up and putting back down" fee. Sheesh! As Meltem put it, he and his partner were just out "shopping" for fines to extort from people. (In fact as we were getting back into Bernie a guy stopped his car next to us and said the cops had just done the same thing to him.) I've read enough about arbitrary abuses of authority, but now I can attest from experience that living through it genuinely sucks.

Friday, August 24, 2007

Photo catch-up

Hi! We're still here! I thought I'd share a couple of photos that have been sitting in my phone, unretrieved. Our first theme is: Nature's wild kingdom.

Behold the savage Coffeehouse-dwelling Chair Cat, photographed in his natural habitat:



Here, too, is the local equivalent of Garfield. (Note to keen-eyed readers: the "SexEn" on the plaque is a naughty play on the word "seksen," meaning 80, as in Class of '80.)



Here's one I took ages ago, on the campus of Yeditepe. This is one of the numerous puppies spawned by the strays who lived high on the hog on campus. You can tell this is a work of my early period by the thumb across the bottom of the picture...



Finally, here's one of Sirma and her special friend. Sirma, I may have mentioned, is a lazybones dog who apparently feels it her duty to monitor the goings-on in our parking lot by lying around all day. In recent weeks another dog has shown up, a true fatbody (apparently obesity afflicts canines as well). Obviously they're close, because Sirma is licking Tubby's ear.



Enough with the cats and dogs, here is a nice view of the Bosphorus from the campus of Meltem's university:



And I hope you've enjoyed this photographic romp.

Sunday, August 12, 2007

Our anniversary celebration(s)

As mentioned, yesterday was our sixth wedding anniversary. Thought you might like to see a picture of the éclairs and "6"-candle I so cunningly purchased, so here's the moment we sat down to enjoy them:



In the evening we decided to go to a nice restaurant Meltem knows on the Asian shore of the Bosphorus (here's their website). That sounds far away, but actually we just went down the hill on our side to catch the restaurant's private boat for customers. Complimentary wine was served on board, always a big hit with me:



The restaurant itself is right on the water directly underneath the second bridge (i.e. the one further up the Bosphorus, closer to the Black Sea). The traffic noise therefrom actually isn't as bad as you might think; in fact, it recedes into kind of a background hum and isn't really obtrusive at all. The location makes for nice shots of the setting sun in our fair continent-spanning city:



Here's another shot I like:



The food was a bit pricey but utterly fantastic (you do indeed get what you pay for!). So we had a wonderful anniversary dinner; here's to many more!

Saturday, August 11, 2007

The travels of Meltem's mom

Last night we went to Meltem's parents' place to welcome her mom and aunt back from their recent 11-day trip to Russia. This was the first time Meltem's mom had been outside Turkey since coming here from Yugoslavia (Kosovo, in fact) in the 1950s, so we were really happy for her. The trip was basically a river cruise from Moscow to St. Petersburg, and both ladies were very pleased with the whole thing.

We almost saw them, too. Meltem and her mom regularly communicated by cell phone or text message, and so we knew the travelers' itinerary. One day we knew they were going to be on an island called Kizhi, home to a remarkable 18th-century church with 22 domes. The building is made entirely out of carved and joined wood – not a single nail in the whole darn thing. Anyway, it turns out the place not only has a website, but also a continuously-updated webcam. So we hovered over the web page hoping to catch a glimpse of our intrepid travelers (and even thought we had 'em at one point, but it turned out to be a false alarm). Talk about a small world!

A dual reason for celebration

Today, August 11, is a day for celebrating twice over. Number one, it's our sixth wedding anniversary. And number two, it's Meltem's first day of freedom after working practically nonstop since February – first the spring semester, and then right into the summer Turkish course, which ended yesterday to the palpable relief of all.

I was hoping that the latter would degrade Meltem's capacity to remember the former, so that I could surprise her with an anniversary gesture. Almost worked, too. The morning began with nary a mention of the anniversary. At one point Meltem said she was going to phone in a delivery order to the pastry shop across the street, so naturally I jumped at the chance to go out and get her a yummy little surprise: éclairs plus a birthday candle shaped like the number 6 to stick in one of 'em. Alas, by the time I got back with my Secret Cargo of Loooooove Meltem had checked her e-mail and received a nice anniversary e-card from my mom (as had I). So the surprise was semi-blown, but it couldn't have happened in a nicer way!

Monday, August 06, 2007

That sizzling sound

... you hear is Turkey baking in one of the worst summers in memory. A day or two ago we did get this:



– but it lasted almost exactly as long as it took Meltem to run inside, fetch the camera and take this photo. Then it was back to more of the same hot-n-sunny. At least we don't (yet) have it as bad as Ankara; they're in a hot dry region and at a high altitude to boot, so their water shortage has hit the critical level (reservoir below 5% capacity) and the public water supply is now on a 48 hours on, 48 hours off cycle. Can you imagine, 48 hours with nary a drop from the tap? We were promised thunderstorms today but naturally they didn't materialize. Now I like sunshine as much as the next guy, but this is getting to be a little much. So I like talking to Mom and Dad on Skype and hearing them talk about all the rain they're getting.

Tuesday, July 31, 2007

Snip!

It being the last day of the month, I checked my bank account and lo and behold, Yeditepe paid me my July salary – pro-rated to take into account the resignation letter I couriered to them last week. So it appears they got the message, and I am now officially outta there. The cord has been cut, as it were. Phew. What a saga that was.

My teaching schedule is gossamer-light this week, and next week (ceteris paribus) I have no students at all. I have been taking advantage of this to get some of my own work done in the Bogaziçi library. And it's been going great. It got me thinking how I did not leave Yeditepe (solely) because of the students' alarming inability to reason; nor, more generally, did I bail on academia because I lost interest in the intellectual life. Quite the opposite: There is a certain kind of work I want to do, a certain stamp I want to leave on the world, and it's intellectual work; but academia was proving to be exactly the wrong environment I needed in which to do it. So I shoved off. Spinoza ground lenses, I can teach the SAT for a while.

Thursday, July 26, 2007

Summertime blues

Greetings from the world's largest sauna. It's not actually that hot temperature-wise – as I write this it's about 84 degrees Fahrenheit – but the humidity is unbelievable. Looking off our balcony you can see the Asian side blanketed in steamy clouds. In short, yuck. Meltem and I have no class today (some would say I never have any!), so we're safely ensconced in air-conditioned splendor here in our living room, only daring to dart out into the soupy air for purposes of micturation and suchlike.

When the weather is less hideous, though, we do make the most of the summer. I try to get out and practice tai chi whenever I can, and my sly minx of a wife caught me with the camera the other day:



Also, last weekend we escaped to the shore, as mentioned in our last post. Here's a view of yours truly contemplating the Sea of Marmara:



This is a view across the street, to give you an idea of what kind of building our "summer place" is:



And, finally, a view down to the stairs which lead to the "beach." The water was particularly nice that day; sometimes it fills up with seaweed and jellyfish, but other times it's crystal-clear and the perfect temperature for a refreshing dip.

Sunday, July 22, 2007

Election day

Meltem and I just came back from a very nice, relaxing weekend at her family's summer place about 45 minutes outside the city. I even worked up a tan of sorts. We were hoping that the place would be near-deserted today, because it's election day in Turkey and people would presumably leave early to make it to the polls on time. (Not only is it an important election, what with people being all nervous about returning the ruling party to power, but voting in Turkey is compulsory.) Alas, the place was still somewhat populated, but it certainly didn't detract from the quality of our chill-out time.

Driving back this evening, we noticed an unusual number of cars with European license plates on the road into the city. Meltem thinks they were Gastarbeiter, i.e. Turks who work in Europe, coming back to vote and visit their families while they're at it. Impressive to see how seriously people take voting around here. Not like there's really anyone worth voting for, but I digress!

Tuesday, July 17, 2007

My Proustian moment

The oddest things make you homesick. At work last week I was chatting with my colleagues at lunch when one of them, Selma, commented that as a graduate student in Massachusetts many years ago, she was grossed out when her residence served cottage cheese with pineapple. Bam! All of a sudden I had really vivid memories of eating cottage cheese with pineapple, and let me assure you they are blissful memories indeed. Naturally I piped up in favor of my beloved delicacy, but Selma was not to be moved. No matter – I was off down memory lane, an especially bittersweet inner journey in light of the fact that as far as I am aware, you can't get cottage cheese here in Turkey. So now there are, officially, two things I desperately miss about the States: autumn in New England, and cottage cheese with pineapple.

Thursday, July 12, 2007

A MelbaBlog Milestone!


I was just gonna post something about my day, but I realized when I logged in that this is the 100th post on MelbaBlog! So, happy anniversary to us.

My new job continues to go well. It's a very interesting change from the kind of lecturing I'm used to. I used to have a body of material in my brain (e.g. "Islamic art from the 7th to the 14th century") which I then had to transmit, over the course of a semester or so, into the brains of my students. Teaching the SAT is different, because the body of material is, well, the English language and how to use it right. I have 3 students so far. Usually they come for 2 hours at a time, twice a week, but one of them is only in Istanbul for a month, so I've been teaching her 4 hours a day, 3 times a week – whew! Tiring, especially because I'm sorta learning by doing, but it's a good change for me. Plus, today was my first payday (ka-ching)!

Otherwise, summer continues to drag along with no rain in sight. Pretty sad to see the hay-brown lawn outside our balcony. Since there's an election coming up on July 22, the government doesn't dare mess with the water supply, but rumor has it that after the election they will start shutting off the water for some hours each day. Yuck. And speaking of elections, I will be glad when they're over if only because that will mean the various political parties will stop driving amplifier-laden vans around town blaring the lousy pop songs they commissioned for themselves...

Wednesday, July 04, 2007

Tuesday, July 03, 2007

Beh!

(More Elvin treacle follows hereupon, so scroll down if you're not interested.)

This was passed on to me by Meltem: The other day, out of the blue, Elvin looked at her mother and said "Beh!" (her version of "Barry") and made a hugging gesture. For those of you unfamiliar with Elvinese, this may be translated as "I love Barry!" And, of course, I'm flattered as all bug-out. I may only have a fan club of one, but she is surely a cutie!

Moving right along

It feels like things are moving right along around here. For one thing, I have started teaching – with a vengeance; they've already given me three students! This may not sound like a lot, but each one gets my time in two-hour blocks, twice a week, and one of them is only in Istanbul for a month so she's doing four hours a day three times a week. So my schedule is filling up (and my bank account will shortly follow!).

Also, today Meltem and I went to the Istanbul police to renew my residence permit. We were expecting a hellish bureaucratic experience, but actually it went much more smoothly than all that, I'm happy to report. We paid for a three-year extension, so I am legal until just after my fortieth birthday. Yes, fortieth. Middle age, here I come. Talk about moving right along...

Sunday, July 01, 2007

Can't resist

...posting a picture of a graduation. God, I'm such a sucker for academic regalia and ceremony. We missed the main shindig, but yesterday a separate graduation was held for (I think) students of the Faculty of Administrative Sciences, and I got a snap of the professors coming onto the field. So here you are. (Cue "Pomp and Circumstance"!)